After answering more than a 1000 DM’s (easily), 200 emails and countless blog/youtube comments from girls and boys (!!) with curly hair, there is one mistake almost all newbies make.
One that this blog could have easily avoided, but I fell prey to assuming that one would obviously know that. A wrong assumption, you my reader has, that leads to questions and complaints like-
‘I’ve done your routine but I’m not getting any curls’
‘When will my curls look like yours???’
“I used abc but my curls are so limp and flat ? :(”
Now, read this closely because it is extremely important.
No two curl patterns are exactly the same and there are different types of curly hair.
[bctt tweet=”Curly hair is like a box of chocolates… you never know what you’re really going to get.” username=”curiousjalebi”]
In basic terms, this means that there are many different types of natural hair. Some have a mix of two-three types as well!
Each type needs a slightly different hair care routine, modified and tweaked to get the best out of that hair texture.
If you follow a routine meant for a different hair type, you will NOT get the best results. You might end up damaging them even more!
Knowing more about your texture will also help you decide things like
- Do I need to use a leave in conditioner AND a curl cream?
- Why do my curls start from the middle/end of my hair ?
- Why does my hair become messy and unmanageable in just one day!
- Should I choose lighter or heavier conditioners?
- Do I need a gel?
- Do I need to rinse off my curls with warm or cold water?
- I lose bounce and pattern when my hair is long..
etc.
If you are truly interested in getting your natural hair to the best state it can be, continue reading this post.
Disclaimer – Do make sure your hair is moisturised to truly determine your hair pattern. You can do this by conditioning your hair generously in the shower, combing it through and then rinsing it out gently to see how they curl up.
Also, with consistent routine and care, hair texture does improve over time but if you have wavy hair, it won’t suddenly become tight curls or coils. Learn to embrace your hair, not just the one you saw and liked on social media. 🙂
1. Pattern
This is the most obvious and easy categorisation one can make with natural hair. It indicates the common pattern your hair strands have. Besides straight hair, there can be either wavy, curly or kinky hair. A, B, C explains the width of the wave, curl or kink.
This is SO IMPORTANT to understand because many of you have wavy hair and expect your hair to look like mine, when I have a curly hair type. You’ll understand what I mean below.
Also, do remember that you can have more than one hair type (see below) and you should take this as a general guide and experiment with products on your own!
Ready to find out your hair texture? Let’s begin!
Types of Wavy Hair
Hello my type 2 Wavies! Wavy hair can be the most versatile, rebellious and sometimes even frustrating hair type of all. A majority of women actually have wavy hair yet most of us don’t take care of our hair right to begin with so we often can’t tell!
There are 3 types of wavy hair- light (2A), medium (2B) to high (2C). They can require light to moderate hydration and get great results even with protein in their hair products. This texture also gets easily weighed down so using lightweight products and clarifying (using a sulphate shampoo free of silicones) regularly is essential.
If you think of you have wavy hair, see which of the below IG curlie’s hair looks the most similar to yours.
2A Wavy Hair
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bksbs8Dn2Pk/Fine, thin hair that form loose waves in a broad S shaped pattern. Since this hair type is very thin, it can easily get weighed down and will look better with lighter styling products like mousse and light, watery gels. This is also the easiest hair type to straighten.
2B Wavy Hair
Hello beachy waves! Slightly more coarser and thicker than 2A, they are also often straight from the roots but look wavier from mid-length to ends. This hair type also gets frizz at the crown easily. This is also easy to try different hairstyles and even switch to straight hair.
2C Wavy Hair
Who’s the waviest wavy of them all? 2C! 😀 People with 2C hair have the most defined waves and that usually starts at the roots. It’s also coarser and thicker in texture and frizzes up easily. This texture will need more hydration and moisture than other wavies but can also become limp and flat soon.
Tips for Wavy Hair
- Switch to the CG Method which will remove ingredients like silicone that can weigh down your hair.
- Even after switching to CG, do clarify OFTEN whenever you feel like your waves are looking too flat and is getting frizzy despite using the right styling product.
- Start with this routine- Shampoo hair, condition hair, rinse out with Squish to Condish Method.
- You HAVE to try styling with DIY Flaxseed gel. SO MANY wavies love this!
- If you find you still need more hydration and definition after this, begin experimenting with lightweight stylers like mousse, milks and leave in conditioning sprays.
- Want your waves to last longer in humidity? Try hard hold gels. Use the gel to style alone or after a leave in.
- Condition and style your hair upside down.
- Scrunch, Scrunch, Scrunch! After applying your stylers, take a t-shirt and scrunch your waves upwards for a few minutes and then ‘Plop’ your hair to fight gravity.
- Flat crown? Clip your hair at the crown and use a diffuser.
- Check our @powerdomi’s styling videos and experiment.
- Try Finger Coiling Method with your deep conditioner and styler to ‘train your curls’ to clump together.
- Read this brilliant post by resident wavy hair goddess Alyson
- Check out this awesome post filled with my favourite wavy hair bloggers top tips for waves!
Didn’t find your hair twin yet? Check out the next category of hair type below.
Types of Curly Hair
This is what I have. By looking at the texture even when it is wet, you can identify a common curl pattern. Curly hair types varies from loose to tight curls and one usually always has more than one type. Hair is more defined, shrink easily and curls often start right at the root.
Again, there are 3 types of curly hair – 3A, 3B & 3C!
This hair type needs a lot of hydration and moisture from leave in conditioners, creams and gels to keep the frizz away. Depending on intensity of curliness, you can get great results with multiple styling products too. This pattern also requires a lot of elbow grease to straighten and gets damaged easily.
3A Curly Hair
Big, angelic, loose spirals with a definite S shape. Very easily weighed down like wavy hair if you overdo conditioning and use heavier stylers. Curls can lose their definition easily & you will need to restyle or wash more often. Squish to Condish inside the shower, using light leave in conditioners to style hair after shower, plopping, finger coiling and diffusing hair are recommended for 3A curlies.
3B Curly Hair
Coarser, drier texture with tightly wound curls that can vary from ringlets to corkscrew shape. This hair type can easily look voluminous even with air drying but can lack shine and can get very frizzy if not taken care of properly. Layering styling products (leave in conditioner, curl creams and gels) immediately after your shower (when hair is still wet) with techniques like LCO,LCG helps defend 3B hair against humidity.
3C Curly Hair
3C hair is tightly curled hair, dense, with the circumference of a pencil. This hair type shrinks a LOT but also has the most volume when it dries! One needs to remember the shrinkage when you go to the salon for a hair cut because most hair stylists will cut it wet, when the curls are elongated. When they dry, shock at how short it has become is very common.
Make sure you condition your hair well and deep condition once a week and use leave in conditioner, curl creams that keep your hair hydrated. To distribute the products, comb after the conditioner and leave in conditioner and coat it with a layer of curly girl friendly gel.
Tips for Curly Hair
10 Things to Learn About Curly Hair That Will Change Your World
Say Goodbye to Your Dry Frizzy Hair with these 12 Easy Hacks
Types of Kinky/Coily Hair
Wiry, delicate and fine, this is the most fragile textures of them all where the coils are tightly packed on the scalp. This hair texture requires careful handling because it has the fewest cuticle layers among all hair types so care needs to be taken to add and retain moisture, increase length and reduce tangles and breakage. Heavier deep conditioners and styling products with rich butters, emollients and oils, along with techniques like Shingling, Twist Out, Bantu Knots & Baggy Method give great results.
I have rarely seen this texture on women in India but when I have they have often been South-Indian! If you do have this texture, turn to the gorgeous women I have linked here for advice.
4A Coily Hair
Wiry, fine coils with a visible S pattern that are tightly packed together. Looks very voluminous.
4B Coily Hair
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bjc-EbVFfGt/The previous hair types had variations in an S pattern whereas with 4B, you have a Z pattern with hair bending at sharp angles. They can look less defined and undergo 75% shrinkage.
4C Coily Hair
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bkkr7eMjXqc/The most tightly packed, dense Z shaped coils of them all. This hair type experiences the most amount of shrinkage.
Tips for Coily Hair
- Embrace Patience – your hair will take time to detangle, moisturise and style. Don’t do it in a hurry when you’re liable to be impatient and be rough with your hair.
- Deep conditioning will become your friend! In fact, you can even use your deep conditioner as a daily styler.
- Try the Baggy Method (with caution, if you overdo it you might get hydral fatigue).
- Try out styling methods like Shingling, Twist-Out’s, Braid-Out’s, Bantu Knots.
- Find products with rich butters and emollients to condition and style your hair.
- Do regular scalp massages and oil your hair before and after to help in growing hair long.
2. Length
Do I really need to explain this? 😛 This helps identify how long your hair is. Now considering wavy and curly hair shrink, sometimes up to 75%, it is important to know your actual length. Twist your arm around your back and stretch a curl straight and note where it ends.
When you know your length, you can choose the right styling technique and also find out how much effort you will need to put in while taking care of your hair!
Short Curly Hair
https://www.instagram.com/p/BlFsmMKnIkU/If your hair length does not or barely touches your shoulders, you have short hair! This is the easiest to maintain in all weathers. Since the hair is short, the strands still have the natural oils and will only need a light spray to keep it fresh and healthy. Don’t use very heavy products as they can slide down your hair and cause build-up on the scalp. A great DIY product to use to style is the Flaxseed Gel.
I personally love short hair – it’s super fun and easy to maintain. If you’re feeling a little on the fence on cutting your hair short, check this out.
Medium Length Curly Hair
Hair length that reaches your shoulders or your bra strap. A little more care is required to keep the frizz at bay and encourage volume. Flip your head over and then apply leave in conditioner or stylers from roots to ends and dry them with a diffuser. At night, protect your curls by making a ‘pineapple’.
Long Curly Hair
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk7j2Lhnb0o/The most coveted length, especially in India. So many DMs sent to find out how they can grow their curls long. Now, if your hair (when pulled straight) reaches your armpit or waist, congratulations, you have long hair! But remember, you will need to put in the most effort in taking care of your hair since the natural oils from your scalp can’t reach the ends. So remember to deep condition often, seal your ends with an oil, try protective hairstyles like pineapple, plaits & trim the ends when you see damage.
3. Porosity
Porosity refers to how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. This depends on the structure of your hair strand – how porous it is. This is a great thing to learn about your curls because it can help you choose the right styling products.
It is usually genetic but your porosity can change due to environmental damage, chemical treatments and getting them coloured. Healthy, virgin natural hair is usually low porosity (mine) and coloured or transitioning curly hair is usually high porosity. You can also have two types on your head – often seen in the case of girls where their ends are coloured.
There are many tests (Shower Test, Float Test, Slip n Slide Test) to find out your porosity that you can check but remember to take these tests as a general guide and with a grain of salt. Many people have said this is not always correct. And often, what is a strict No-No for low porosity hair actually ends up suiting some curlies!
Low Porosity
Mostly all healthy hair is low porosity hair. This means that in each hair strand, the cuticle is tightly bound with the scales lying flat which makes it shiny. This also makes it resistant to absorbing water and chemical treatments. This hair type also experiences a lot of build-up and can be sensitive to protein, leaving it stiff and hay like.
Tips for Low Porosity Hair:
- Use lightweight liquid based conditioners, stylers and gels that have humectants (moisture attracting ingredients) like glycerine and honey but are free of heavy butters and proteins. It shouldn’t feel like the product is ‘sitting’ on your hair.
- To encourage the scales to open up and absorb more water or products, do some steaming or use warm water to wash your hair. This will allow the products to penetrate the hair strand instead of building up on top.
- After applying a deep conditioner, cover your hair with a plastic shower cap or get a thermal cap.
- Every few weeks, use a clarifying shampoo (shampoo with sulphates but without silicones) to remove build-up.
Medium Porosity
Best of both worlds! The cuticle is open just enough to allow water to penetrate the hair strand while preventing it from escaping too fast.
Tips for Medium Porosity Hair:
- Do a protein deep treatment occasionally when you think your hair feels too limp or mushy.
- Experiment with both lightweight and layering styling products to find the right cocktail of products.
High Porosity
You can have high porosity genetically too but it is rare. In most cases it is due to chemical treatments like colouring, sun damage or environmental damage. In this hair type, the cuticles are very open with gaps and holes and while they absorb moisture readily, they also let it escape out of the hair as fast! This hair type can overdo on the moisture as well which can ironically make hair frizzy too. So retaining the right amount of moisture and definition become concerns for high porosity hair.
Tips for High Porosity Hair
- Avoid products with humectants like Glycerine and honey in high heat and humid weathers as they will absorb extra moisture from the environment leading to frizz.
- Layer your products! Follow up your leave in with a curl cream, a gel and seal the strands with an oil.
- Try rich butters in your products that can fill up the holes in your cuticle.
4. Density
“Wow, your hair is so thick!”
This is often used to convey that the person has a LOT of hair and looks full. Thick actually is the wrong word and indicates the width of the hair strand, whereas what you need to actually use is Dense‘.
Density refers to how many and closely the hair strands are packed together on an 1″X 1″ area of your scalp. Want to find out? Wash and dry your hair as normal and look at it from different angles.
If you see your scalp easily, you have low density, if you see some- medium density and if you can’t see your scalp at all or it is very tough to- you have high density hair.
Density is usually passed down via genetics but can change due to nutrition and hormone imbalances, stress and such.
Low
You’re always on a hunt to find products that hide the scalp or make it look more fuller and voluminous. For that you can try dry shampoos, volumising conditioners and mouusses. Stay away from heavy conditioners and stylers and diffuse your hair to make it look bigger.
Medium
Volume or definition? You have the liberty to choose and play with stylers to achieve both! Use lightweight products and diffuse your hair when you want volume and use heavier styling products or layer them to achieve more definition.
High
Your hair can look too voluminous and lose out on definition. Use creams and gels that are rich to keep them clumped together and defined. Also, you will need a lot more product that the rest. When getting a hair cut, ask for layers so the volume is divided better.
5. Width
Width indicates the thickness of each strand in your hair. Here too, you can have a mix of two or 3 types of width! Knowing your width informs you of how much damage your hair can withstand.
To find your width, take a hair strand from your comb and hold it it up to a light source. If you have very thin hair and you can hardly see it, it’s fine hair. If you can see it very clearly and it looks wide, then it’s coarse. Medium obviously falls between those two.
Fine
Very delicate and fragile – one needs to be careful handling fine hair. Remember this does not mean only wavy hair is fine, there are women with really curly and coily hair that is fine in nature. Deep conditioning with moisture and sometimes protein will keep hair nourished and strong as is making easy hair styles.
Medium
https://www.instagram.com/p/BiTmcuynIci/Resistant to damage and can grow long easily without much effort. It is equally strong and elastic.
Coarse
https://www.instagram.com/p/BdZr-MBnO0L/
Strongest and toughest hair type that can withstand more chemical and environmental damage and stress. Women with this hair can easily try many hairstyles without breakage and they can retain length more easier. Deep conditioning with moisture is recommended with minimal to no protein treatments.
Conclusion
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk4P4jhnYhW/Whew! Who knew there was so much in the world of natural hair care? I hope this was easy to follow and understand. Now I want you to comment below and tell me your full curly hair identity.
I have 3a/3B, low porosity, medium length, high density and medium width hair. What about you? 🙂
Until next time, follow me on IG, check out my Curly Hair Routine Videos & sign up for my newsletter below!
Jalebi Out!
51 Comments
Aathira
atHi Pallavi, this is a really thorough article on the curls. You are right, finding what we have aids in adapting the right method and products for the hair. Appreciate the efforts and thank you for sharing.
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Aathira! Appreciate you taking the time to write this! <3
Mouna
atHi!
Thanks for this wonderful post!! Didn’t know there were so many things to hairs!
I have 2B/2C , low porosity, long length, high density, medium width hair. Just realising these facts about my hair made me appreciate it in a way that I had never done before
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Mouna, glad you liked the post!
Archana
atLove this post! Clearly understood the CGM! I think I have 2A hair now, probably high porosity, low density hair! I’m losing a lot of hair and its become extremely frizzy! I want to jump onto the CGM wagon. I’m going to check out the products recommended now. Thank you for making the process simpler to understand!
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Archana, glad you liked the post! Welcome to cgm 🙂
Khushi
at3B/3C type hair
Coarse density. Too much volume that I can’t make sections specially in neck area they are unable to handle.
Medium-Coarse thickness
High porosity
Medium length hair .
I have an issue of dandruff too that is flaky and in crown area there is white dry skin appears due to dandruff maybe.
My hair get too much entangled from the ends and in the neck area and they breaks easily . I am starting this method now please help me out.
Pallavi Juneja
atHi Khushi, if its too much volume, next time you get a hair cut, get layers so it redistributes some of the thickness. Next, follow a curly hair routine. It will keep dryness at bay When you condition and comb, apply a leave in conditioner.. these things will reduce breakage and keep the tangles reduced.
Gayatree
atHi Pallavi,
Very helpfull Post. Can you help me find a routine for me. I have 2B-2C hair wavy at the end. I am not able to figure out which shampoo’s and conditioner to go for from list given by you.
I have very frizzy and brittle hair.
Pallavi Juneja
atTry fix my curls squeaky clean or Arata Shampoo (they can dry your scalp slightly but since you have 2B2C hair, they can get oily on top very quickly so it should balance it) and follow with any conditioner in your budget tbh (try Truefrog – You can use my code CURIOUSJALEBI10 for a discount too!)
Madeliene Hartman
atI have really coarse 2B wavy hair, all the products I’ve tried either make my hair look frizzy or crunchy, any recommendations on products I should use or look into? I should probably mention that up to 2 months ago, I’ve been straigtening my hair everyday for years.
Pallavi Juneja
atSo heat damage if its very severe, will be tough to get it to curl without getting frizzy. If its that damaged, best to grow it out and cut it off. Next, try smoothing on a mousse or a leave in spray form there to give it more moisture, Deep condition once a week.
Faheem
atI read your article. It has helped me a lot to understand the porosity of my hair. your work is good keep it up as well! I have a question? If I use coconut oil on my hair. So will it be absorbed into my hair. My hair type is low porosity hair.
Pallavi Juneja
atHey! It should, be light with it is all.
Mrunali Zode
atI have 2B/2C, low porosity, low density, medium thick waves!
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you for sharing! Hope you found products that suit you <3
meera k
atCould you pls exlain as to why my curls dont form at the crown and only start from the nap of my neck
Pallavi Juneja
atIt could be your hair type! Mine also starts mid length. Also, try styling hair upside down and diffusing
Smita Achrekar
atHi Pallavi,
After reading the post, i felt like this is what i was looking for but couldn’t name the feelings. Always deprived from appreciating the curls and hence the looks..
Ran behind strengthening madly..so many times, did all that harsh treatments and then exorbitant pricy Shampoos and conditioners and unsuccessful efforts to hide frizz.
Quite reach info about hair. My hair type seems to be ranging from 2C to 3A. Medium thickness and low porosity.
Very much encouraged to follow the methods and regain healthy curly hair and my natural looks back. Excited about the same 🙂
Pallavi Juneja
atYou and most of us growing up! And thank you, so glad you dropped in! Hope the tips work for you 🙂
myra
atReally too good information provided on curly hair.
thank you!!!
Pallavi Juneja
atGlad you liked it!
Devanshi Zaveri
atHi Pallavi,
I am still unsure of what my hairtype is coz from the pictures shared above, my curls dont start from my root, they start midway at some places and two inches away from some places which could be 2C but my curls are similar to yours and a little bit like 4A but not super voluminous. I have mid length medium porosity hair. Would be great if you could help me out here so i can pick which routine to start as it’s been a month since i have started CG but feel like i am going wrong somewhere
Pallavi Juneja
atLike mine but 4A? I think you’re confused 😛 Email me your hair pictures, I’ll help
Shagun Mann Gill
atWaaoo ! How beautifully you have explained the aspects about curly hair which normally one is not aware off. Thanks for sharing this knowledge and information .
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Shagun, I’m glad you liked it!
Jennifer
atI have a mix of 3c/4a hair and it is high porosity. Sealing my hair with oil whether I use a curl cream or not is key. Everything falls apart if I miss that step. Very detailed article on curls. This is really cool!
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Jennifer!
drishti
atNEWBIE: Initially I could not really place my hair type because the pictures look of such healthy beautiful hair, something that my hair might never look like (or so I believe right now). Then I saw somewhere a comparision of the before and after picture of your hair! and realised, Yup! thats me!
Great post
Pallavi Juneja
atHaha! I understand- even I had no clue my hair could be like this! And thank you, glad you liked the post!
Dils
atHi Pallavi….. lovely explanation
I have 2c/3A curls high porosity, coarse Hair, medium length, med dense hair
Supriya Adiga
atGreat post Pallavi! I have 3A, fine high porosity – I’ve been coloring for years
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you!
Roopa Amit
atVery informative and detailed blog Pallavi. How I wish I could have found this earlier. Some products are no doubt expensive but your listing of less expensive Indian products is a boon .you have put in a lot of hard work. I understood I have type 2A, low porosity, medium dense and mostly medium width hair. Without reading this when I tried Asha’s shampoo, conditioner, then washed and again applied conditioner and used the squish to condish method…this is something I shouldn’t have done as it did not help me much. My friends used to tease me I have hair like Sai Baba. Bushy…dry. With tons of baby hair it makes me look horirble… Inbetween I decided to make those pouf hair styles…it clearly gave way to my scanty hair …very frustrated…will try these methods one after other to see what suits me.
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Roopa! So glad you liked the post. I did this post because many wavies and looser curlies were following my exact routine and were obviously not getting results and lost hope. Did you try other methods and find something you liked?
Rashmi NairRashmi
atBrilliant post Pallavi! I am a complete newbie to the curly girl world. Because of lack of awareness in India we resort to harsh chemical treatments and the likes. I straightened my hair, Smoothened it and then did multiple treatments like Cystene and Keratin just because nobody at the salon knew that I could look more beautiful in curls.. all I needed to do was to enhance them. Your post was very informative.. I think I have combination hair.. ranging from 2B – 3A.. medium density.. fine (Im sure this is on account of all that heat and damage).. low porosity..I am tempted to watch all your videos henceforth and will look forward to more posts from you. 🙂
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Rashmi! So glad you liked the post. And I totally get where you’re coming from, I got a keratin done too. Thankfully more and more people are talking about it now and in time hopefully salons will also learn to guide instead of bully girls into getting those treatments.
Sunakshi
atI have 3A, low porosity, medium length, medium density, fine width hair. Thank you so much for this detailed post! Been almost a year that I’ve been following the CG routine. Cantu cream, however, is the only curly hair product I am using. I get defined curls but a lot of frizz. Do I need a leave in conditioner too?
Priti
atWhat a detailed post Pallavi. Kudos!!
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you Priti!! Glad you liked it! 💕
Chandana
atAmazing Post 🙂
Darshine
atReally helpful Pallavi! I think i have 2b to 2c, high porosity, medium length , fine hair..
Pallavi Juneja
atThanks Darshini! High porosity? Your coloured your hair?
Aashish
atHi pallavi !
I really liked your post about curly hair.
But I am still confused about my hair type and which products to choose.
I am struggling from last few years.
Can you please help me out here?
Pallavi Juneja
atSure drop me your hair pic on email pallavijuneja92(at)gmail.com!
Sona
atAmazing write up. So much information in one place is unbelievable. Il keep coming back to it I’m sure.. And I have a 2b / 2c high porosity, medium density, medium width, medium length hair. Phew. I’m tired writing only this much 😂 more power to you Jalebi. Wavies and currlies around the world are grateful for your efforts. Love and hugs. ❤️🤗
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you!!
Nafisa
atWow !! You’ve put in so much efforts for this informative post !! This will be really helpful for all the newbies !!
Pallavi Juneja
atThank you so much Nafisa! 💕
Sneha
atThank you so much for such an informative post! Really grateful to find everything in one place. Not sure if my pattern is 2A or 2B. High porosity (recently coloured), medium density, medium width, long hair. I have been struggling to find the right products as my hair gets really frizzy mid-section downwards, despite conditioning but the frontal region and crown remains oily. Could you help me out here?
Pallavi Juneja
atHi Sneha, thank you! Please check this post- https://thecuriousjalebi.com/2019/01/21/how-to-start-cg-method-on-wavy-hair/